Kerala Eco-Tourism

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The Periyar

The river Periyar is the longest river in Kerala. This is the only perennial river in South India with clean water. The river occupies an important place in the history of Kerala. In the Sangam age Tamil epics such as Chilapathikaram, ‘Akananuru’, ‘Purananuru’ etc much has been said about this mighty river, formerly known as the ‘Choorni nadi’ or ‘Thamraparni Nadi’ (Sukasandesam –stanza 66). A land route existed in the Sangam age from Mussuris (present-day Kodungalloor) to Madurai which passed near the banks of the river Periyar. The capital of the old Chera Empire presumably existed on the banks of the river Periyar. It is believed that there was a flood in the 4th century AD which severely damaged the areas along the Periyar and the people living there had to escape to safer locations, abandoning their homes and livelihoods. The flood of AD 1341 resulted in the closing of Kodungalloor port and the opening of a new port at Kochi. The huge landslide that began in the high ranges as a result of the heavy downpours sent massive flows of mud and sand which created an Island at the ‘Azhimugham’ of the Periyar which is now known as the Vyppin Islands.

Several poets of the Sangam age have mentioned the specialty of the water flowing through the Periyar, especially about its medicinal values and curing capacity for several diseases. The Periyar begins in the high ranges in an area where the ‘Neelakoduveli’ – a Mruthasanjeevani (life saving herbal plant) is supposed to grow. It is believed that water flowing in the northern side of the river possesses more medicinal value than that in the south.

The Periyar provides 75% of the electricity consumed by the people of Kerala. Idukki, Pallivasal, Lower Periyar, Mattupetty, Edamalayar and several other hydro electric projects are located on the banks. The biggest irrigation project in Kerala – the Periyar Valley Irrigation Project - which is at present irrigating the entire district of Ernakulam (it is planned to extend its waters to parts of Thrissur district) is at Bhoothathan Kettu. In Bhoothathan Kettu there is a dam just below the sangamam point of the Periyar. Water from the Periyar provides drinking water for the whole city of Cochin, and Alwaye and Perumbavoor towns. There are several heavy industries located on the banks of the Periyar along its reaches below Alwaye. Several pilgrim centers like Malayattoor Church, Alwaye Sivarathri Manalpuram, the birth place of Sri Sankaracharya at Kalady etc. are on the banks of the Periyar.

At present the Periyar is facing several challenges. Unscrupulous sand mining, unrestricted use of pesticides in the paddy fields along the banks of the river and the heavy flow of poisonous waste water from the heavy industries located on its banks are killing the mighty river. Its role as a life saving line, which has been unchanged for centuries, is threatened now.

Nannagadies, remnants of old temples, houses, canals etc have been found, which remain in the forest as proof of a rich civilization that existed there in an unclear point of history. The discovery of four gold coins of ' Umayya Kalifa' (AD 661-750) from Kothamangalam (Ernakulam Gazetter p 50), which is very close to Bhoothathan Kettu, proves the rich historic background of this area. Bhoothathan Kettu is the perfect getaway for the history-minded tourist.

Birding At The Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary
Thattekad

On the western side of the Indian subcontinent is the rain ward side of the Western Ghats, a lush green part of the country watered by every passing cloud. Here lies the quiet but beautiful Kerala, haven for a wide variety of exotic flora and fauna. Thattekad, on the banks of the river Periyar, is a dense monsoon forest, not very far from the port town of Cochin. Salim Ali described it as "the birder's paradise". A plantation forest with teak, mahogany and fruit-bearing trees along with the natural wild tropical deciduous vegetation, it is home to nearly 350 species of birds, most notably the Malabar gray hornbill. Other exotic birds are the Ceylon frogmouth, Malabar trogon, White-bellied treepie and Heart-spotted woodpecker. Elephants also live here, happy with the easily accessible ponds on the side of the river. It is now protected as the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary.

Location

From Ernakulam one can take a bus to Kothamangalam, a two-hour journey. Buses to this place may not be very frequent. So an alternative is to take one of the frequent buses to Muvattupuzha and from there take a bus to Kothamangalam (a half-hour journey), which is a shorter route too.

From Kothamangalam there are direct buses to Thattekad throughout the day, and one need not take a boat from Bhoothathan Kettu. Thattekad is 15 km from Kothamangalam and the bus takes about half an hour. On reaching Thattekad, the bus is ferried across the river Periyar on a contraption made by joining three small boats. The sanctuary is very well-maintained.

Checklist of Birds at Thattekad

House Swift Malabar Grey Hornbill* Brahminy Kite Brown Lizard-Hawk (Jerdon's Baza)* Darter Pond Heron Cattle Egret Little Egret Median Egret Little Cormorant Red-wattled Lapwing Gull-billed Tern Spotted Dove Green Pigeon* Common kingfisher White-breasted Kingfisher Pied Kingfisher Little Green Bee-eater Greater Coucal Koel Gold-fronted Leafbird* Fairy Bluebird* (Shama) Magpie Robin Red-breasted Flycatcher Purple Sunbird Purple-rumped Sunbird Tickell's Flower-pecker Large Pied Wagtail Indian Pitta* Crimson-throated Barbet* Little Green Barbet Rufous Woodpecker* Great Indian Three-toed Woodpecker* Golden-backed Woodpecker

Common hawk-cuckoo Grey Jungle-fowl* White-breasted Water-hen (Bronze-winged Jacana) Grey tit Common Iora Jungle Crow House Crow Indian Tree-pie White-bellied Tree-pie* Racket-tailed Drongo* Bronze Drongo* Black Drongo Ashy Drongo Golden Oriole Black-headed Oriole Small Minivet Large Woodshrike* Common Woodshrike Paradise Flycatcher Yellow-browed Bulbul* Red-whiskered Bulbul Red-vented Bulbul Ruby-throated Yellow Bulbul* (Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch) Common Myna Hill Mynah* White-headed Myna* Blyth's Reed-warbler Jungle Babbler Heart-spotted Woodpecker* Blossom-headed Parakeet* Blue-winged Parakeet* Indian Lorikeet*